An introduction to using camouflage masks as a painting aid on model aircraft. Modern jet fighters are never rusty or dirty, even though the paintwork can show signs of retouching and repairing. I also add a few small marks to assist with aligning the mask once cut. Note that this only works with solvent-based paints, as curative paints can be ruined using this method. I would use heavy paper, such as construction paper, cut out the pattern, and get it as close to the surface as you can when painting. The most common reasons I’ve found for this are not de-tacking sufficiently, not allowing the first color to dry thoroughly, not allowing the primer coat to dry completely, or not making sure the plastic surface is free from oils before priming. Also check that no small gaps are left in any areas between tape sections. I use 50/50 Paint to Thinner when brush painting. if your painting three color scheme start with brush painting your camo by wiping the excess paint of the brush and gently dabbing the color on slowly building it up until you get the desired effect your after, then mix a slightly lighter base color thin it slightly and paint the entire model again covering your camo. On the trailing edge, though, to keep a straight line will require some careful stretching and bending of the tape. Here I have my Trumpeter 1/48 L-39ZA, freshly painted with a coat of Vallejo Model Air Interior Green. They require a bit of planning, and it's often good to make notes to make notes about which color is applied to which part when. I want to paint up my mig 15 as a Hungarian bird which the instructions say dark green dark brown and sand colors and aircraft blue on the bottom. For paint I would suggest not using cheap craft paints. If I used the cups for enamels, I would discard the cups. If you’d like to join them, find out how on my Patreon page. Next, I use my marker, and draw the pattern on to the tape, using the painting guide as a reference. Secure the part to be painted. I have good friends whose work I greatly admire that would list one of the above methods as their favorite. . The second step is how you airbrush around the masked edge. This generally occurs when you have to cover a darker color with a lighter one, so the plan with this model is to paint the white first, then the yellow fuselage band and wing undersides. Camouflaged scale models can be challenging to paint. The paint will seep under any gaps, and in the case of these stripes, that would result in some rather glaring red and green fingers extending into the white band. At this stage, I usually proceed with doing any other areas like this – get the “flat” parts out of the way first. At first, I don’t push it down, but leave it a bit loose for fine adjustment. With that section on place, I added the other “ends” of the boundaries for that area, using a combination of 2mm and 5mm curve tape. The main rule here is to build up your paint coats from lightest shade to darkest (though there are exceptions that we will cover in future articles). First, you need a model that has the first color of a camo scheme already applied. And of all those, I think de-tacking is the most frequent culprit in my experience. While interesting (and I'm sure the physics behind their creation is quite fascinating), they can be rather annoying when they fold over and land on your freshly painted model. Given the amount of masking already planned for this model, any little help in speeding things up is greatly appreciated. Because we will be masking extensively on this subject, I wanted to use a paint that is durable and not likely to pull up with tape. Let dry and repeat. Cut the mask a bit beyond where it will need to stop in this instance, so the excess can wrap under the wing. I like to start by masking some of the flatter surfaces. Use loops of flattened tape, or small pieces of "Blu-tac" to attach paper masks to the model. Next week we will tackle a camouflage that the airbrush was made for: that of the freehand feathered edge camouflage. 3. (Note- you can use masking fluid here, but in a few cases where I’ve done this, the masking fluid imparted a bit of color shift, which did not look nice. How to Paint Camouflage: I will show you my method for easily painting camouflage on nearly any surface with cheap spray paint. Testing AK Interactive's Weathering Pencils, Basic Modeling Skills: Applying Waterslide Decals. Before I place it on, however, I always, always, always “de-tack” the tape. Don’t hurry this process. Miniature Model Paint Brush Set - 11 Pieces Fine Detail Painting Brushes for Art Painting - Acrylic, Watercolor, Gouache, Oil - Airplane Kits, Ceramic, Warhammer 40k 4.7 out of 5 stars 231 $7.89 Some paint may lift – it happens. FREE Shipping. Work with both thinning ratios and air pressure until you find a comfortable setup that you can consistently maintain. Still, it is better to solve the problem beforehand, and that is through using the right kind of thinner and making sure the paint is thinned properly and thoroughly. (I used to de-tack the tape on my forehead, until one time I forgot I had a piece up there, and spent the afternoon with a giant hunk of Tamiya tape stuck above my eyebrow, curious why my family was laughing at me more than normal.). Once you have finished, lift away the excess – you now have a camo mask! google_ad_slot = "5589867195"; I’d like to say a special “THANK YOU” to the wonderful people who support me on Patreon at the Monkey Fanatic level! $16.68 $ 16. (Or at least a part of one…). This article will provide general advice about the order to apply the various layers of paint and other finishing layers that are commonly used.